How I envy that cloud. That Thief!
Stealing His warmth 'way from my face.
Surely Maulana feels this Grief.
His Sun too disappeared for days.
~ Mir Mehr
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Sunday, January 24, 2010
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Lakshmi Farted...
Chittagonian (language of Chittagong region) is a medley of sarcasm and straightforwardness. Elitist lexicon and ghetto slang. Pure Sanskirt and far-flung Spanish. Thus, it’s no surprise that Chittagonian gave me my new obsession-inducing phrase “Lokkhi Fa’ad diye” … or Lakshmi Farted!!
So … what does it really mean? Well, Lakshmi is the Hindu goddess of prosperity, courage, wealth, generosity. Umm, basically anything Good. And farting means flatulence, which is the release of bodily gas.
When to use this phrase: When someone or something with negative tendencies unexpectedly does something extraordinarily good.
In a country full of unexpected people and events, this phrase is quite ubiquitous.
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Anthropo Logos. III.
I am fascinated by human cultural stubbornness. There are some cultures which battle geography, genocide, and time itself. In my view, one of these cultures is the Kodagu, also known as the Coorgs of India.
Their culture is quite distinct from other South Indian ethnic groups. Most are Hindus of a warrior caste, yet as Hindus they do not abstain from meat (except beef). They have very distinct jewelry and attires, and their language is also separate from other Dravidian languages (though of the same language family). Physically, they look quite different as well, having features that would fit in with North Indians. These could be evidence to the theory that the Coorgs are indeed an invading group of Iranic Central Asians (perhaps Kurds?) who settled deep into Dravidian country almost two millennia ago. Considering its
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Anthropo Logos. II.
Though Dravidian in nature,
However for me, the interest laid in the hills of
When the Dravidians moved further south into the subcontinent, they misplaced people that were previously living here. There were pockets of Negritos, Austro-Asiatics, and perhaps now-extinct ethnic groups living here before the arrival of the Dravidians. Over time, these various groups were absorbed into the greater Dravidian community. However, some remained untouched in one way or another – either through various customs or religion – in the remote Nilgiri Hills.
It was in these hills that I had the privilege of meeting members of the Toda tribe, a group of people as ancient as the mountains themselves. They number only 4000, and their fate does not seem to bright considering the younger generation is moving into the cities and assimilating with the Tamils. They looked quite different from the Tamils of the lowlands, and their language – according to them – was Proto-Dravidian mixed with words of unknown origin. They have very unusual homesteads – almost like American Indian wampum. They are goatherds and shepherds traditionally, and their shawls are simply beautiful.
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Anthropo Logos. I.
Being the anthropoHo that I am, I like to seek out the similarities and differences amongst cultures in any given locale. When I was in
Traveling in
Amongst the Dravidians, there are four major languages and many other smaller languages and dialects. Of the four – Tamil, Malayalam, Telugu, and Kannada – Tamil is considered to be the ‘purest’ of Dravidian languages, unmarred by the Brahmins and their Sanskrit. It is truly an ancient language, with sounds and pitches that can transport you thousands of years in the past. I only wish I could’ve understood a single word!!
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Saturday, January 9, 2010
Burj Khalifa ..
This week, they inaugurated the tallest building – or structure – built by mankind. And where else would this be other than Dubai, UAE.
For many, especially in the Western nations, Dubai conjures up an image of a wealthy, tolerant oasis in an otherwise hostile region of the world. Those with a business mentality see this as their Mecca, while others marvel at its structures. Meanwhile, there are some of us that think it is the Las Vegas of the East, a mere show of tasteless, oil-fed gaudiness.
I was recently watching a BBC special on this new addition to its soaring skyscrapers. The journalist asked one of the investors whether this building would change Dubai’s image of a soulless city. His answer was typical – it would provide the population with a new place to live, shop, eat, and stare at. So yes, it would provide a heart to this city, thus a soul. Hmmmm. And what population was he speaking of? The Uber-elite Khaleeji Sheikhs or the senseless Western spenders? Of course. Why would he talking about the nonexistent migrant workers, who make up about 75% of the city’s population and serve as the brain and sweat of the emirate’s development? The millions of South Asians, Southeast Asians, and Africans that form the populace are often absent from any advertisement or discussion of Dubai.
So yes, they have built another massive building which can only be visited by the super-wealthy and privileged. And yes, it is a milestone for humankind to build the highest known structure. But at the expense of what? Creating more and more tower of Babels are only making apparent the enlarging gaps amongst humans. The new Burj may provide Dubai with a heart, but it has a long while to secure itself a soul.
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Friday, January 8, 2010
A Belated Islamic New Years Resolution
The Islamic New Year begins with the month of Muharram. However, this is no merry-making holiday. Muharram is considered one of the holiest months, second only to Ramadan. Muslim communities across the world experience Muharram differently, though Shias tend to emphasize the martyrdom of Husayn during this month.
In Chittagong, Sunni and Shia customs mixed together to form a unique Muharram celebration. Most people fast the first ten days of Muharram, called the Nights of Ashura. Throughout these ten days, stories of Ali and Husayn are told by the elderly and special prayers are held for their departed souls. On the tenth day, tazia processions are held in the city center, while 'manzils' are held in different localities. On the tenth night, family and friends gather for a large family dinner and more stories about the martyrdom at Karbala.
Above: I was in Kolkata for Muharram this year. I lived near a largely Muslim locality, where drums and chants were heard everywhere. Here, the guys are playing with fire ... I still don't know what his has to do with Muharram.
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The City of Joy
My last few days in India were spent in Kolkata, where I started my journey. After a month of South Indianization, I was surprisingly very happy to be back to a city where my Benglo-Urdu identity was right at home. Kolkata is not a city that'll win you over at first impression... it takes time to admire this ex-colonial metropolis. Kolkata was once called the City of Joy. There are many reasons why it was given such an appraising name... but for me, it was because of its thriving art scene. I ended my India rendezvous with a play that dealt with themes like India and Bengal's identity, gender preferences, and one's orientation in life. No ethnocentrism involved when I say only Bengalis can create such art. :p
Below: The famous Nandan Theatres where I saw this play.
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Lunch Time in India
Above: A Coorghi dish, made of lamb and coconut gravy. Unlike most South Indian Hindu communities, the Coorgs are non-vegetarians ... though they refrain from eating beef.
Above: A very typical Indian meal... well, if you are a Banglamerican who was starved of these glorious morsels of processed transfats for four months... i relished every bit of it.
Above: A typical South India "thali" meal... rice, papads, vegies, served with various condiments and desserts. This was a thali from Ana's wedding.share on: facebook
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Tropical Icicles!
I guess you all know about the cold spell in Europe, since BBC won’t shut up about it. However, there is a severe cold spell occurring in China and South Asia as well. All three seem to be interconnected. The massive cold front from the Arctic is to blame. Though many people won’t double think about freezing temperatures in Europe and China, a tropical country like Bangladesh doesn’t conjure up earmuffs and hot chocolate.
However, it has been bone-numbing cold these past couple of weeks. The freezing Himalayas and Tibetan Plateau are at the footsteps of Bangladesh; the high pressure system over the region creates extremely dry and cold temperatures during the winter months here. Yet, the worst culprit is the fog. This is the densest fog I’ve ever seen – sometimes you can’t even see your hands and feet in the morning. Bengal is noted for its thick fog due to its geographic location: warm air from the Bay of Bengal clashes with the cold, dry air of the Tibetan plateau, creating a dense layer of fog that remains in the plains of Bengal due to the lofty Himalayas surrounding it. This fog creates numerous problems. According to a local doctor, I now have asthma due to Dhaka’s smog. Ayi dios mio indeed.
Aside from showering in near-frozen water and breathing like an old grandma, it’s not all that bad. I can actually wear my scarves, Russian hat, and my earmuffs. Thank you global warming!
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Coorging it up!
I did end up going to Coorg after all. Though I lowered my expectations drastically after my excursion to Kanyakumari. I stayed in Medikeri, the capital of Coorg district. It was a quiet little town perched on several ridges. The whole are had a pleasant climate, surrounded by coffee and spice plantations. It was a relaxing two-day venture… and best of all, I got to see the Coorgs! (Who are the Coorgs? Check my Anthrowhore post coming soon).
Above: A beautiful mosque in Medikeri. There Muslims in every state of India, and this remote hilly region was no exception. There were many Muslim institutions and businesses in town.share on: facebook
My o my! So Sore...
I’ll eventually stop with the senseless titles for my posts. Anywho, I was expecting to cover Mysore (in Karnataka) in one day. But no. I ended up staying in Mysore the longest – four friggin days! But no complaints. These were days well spent – good food, historical mansions, and most importantly – my Singaling amigos!! It was a great way to finish South India; Mysore was a meeting point of South and North India through trade and warfare. Whether it’s the royal Wodeyar mansions, Tipu Sultan’s mosques, or simply the finest silk in the South – Mysore had its charms. (However, the taxi drivers and the hostel managers were probably the worst …).
Above and below: Tipu Sultan's mosques.
Who was Tipu Sultan? Wikipedia it dammit!
Below: Dungeon where the Brits kept Tipu captive. 
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God's Own Country
They call Kerala “God’s Own Country”. I didn’t fully understand this nickname until I visited the Backwaters. Few words can describe it. Beautiful. Serene. Heavenly. I made up my mind on buying one of those houseboats and spending my retired life there.
I want this man to be my bodyguard. 
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Chanukah in Cochin
Where are the Jews??? And the Portuguese? And the Arabs????? History and travel books alike try to paint a much romanticized picture of Cochin … spice warehouses lined along with perfume shops and a cosmopolitan populace speaking to you in farflung tongues. Paaleeeeeez!
Cochin was indeed a very cosmopolitan town in its heyday, mostly for its thriving spice trade. It was the center of Judaism in South Asia, with a population dating back to the fall of the Second Temple. I admit that it was a pretty little town, but it had nothing to enchant me with. I visited all the sites in three hours, and then sat next to the Chinese fishing nets for another five hours. Yes, it was interesting to see the synagogue and Dutch palace, but it would’ve been pretty awesome if an old babushka-clad Jewish nana served me some curry-flavored matzo balls.
Above and Below: The famous Kathakali performances of Kerala ... it takes hours for them to do the makeup.
Below: The famous Chinese fishing nets, introduced to South Asia during admiral Zheng He's voyages in the 15th century.
Below: The Synagogue in Jew Town (seriously, that's the place's name). Now a museum. No cameras allowed inside.
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India's Malibu... I mean, Mahalabalipuram..
Just couple hours away from the craziness of Chennai is Mahabalipuram, a small seaside town known for its pseudo-hippie culture and fascinating temples. The rock reliefs are amazing, even after centuries of monsoonal downpours. The whole area seems a bit surreal – large boulders, Hindu gods, and a roaring ocean. Dali would've salivated over this scenery.
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An Update Overload ...
The following posts were thought of on different days, but was too damn lazy to post them. Hur they are! But first enjoy lil more of Anabelle's wedding pix!
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